When I first started woodworking, I thought picking wood was as simple as grabbing a few boards from the hardware store and getting to work.
But after a couple of warped shelves and cracked tabletops, I realized sourcing the right wood is just as important as the tools you use.
Have you ever finished a project only to watch it twist, crack, or fall apart within weeks?
Choosing the wrong type of wood or ignoring how it’s prepared can lead to headaches down the road. I’ve wasted time and money on lumber that looked fine in the store but caused problems later.
Do you know what to look for when selecting wood, or where to find high-quality boards that won’t disappoint?
If you’ve struggled with these issues or want to avoid them altogether. You’re in the right place.
Let me walk you through the exact steps I follow to source the best wood for my projects, so you can build pieces that last and look great for years to come.
Importance of Sourcing Wood
When I first started woodworking, I thought all wood was pretty much the same.
That illusion shattered quickly when a shelf I built warped after just 2 weeks because I didn’t check the moisture content—a rookie mistake I won’t forget.
Choosing the right wood affects everything from durability to appearance.
I once burned out a saw blade in less than 5 minutes because I underestimated how tough a dense hardwood was, and another time, I spent extra money replacing cheap lumber full of hidden cracks and knots.
Beyond that, sourcing quality wood saves time, money, and frustration.
Some of my favorite projects were made from reclaimed wood, like an old barn beam I turned into a coffee table, adding both character and a story to the piece.
Trust me, taking the extra time to find the right wood makes all the difference in the final result.
How to Source Wood for Woodworking?
Here’re the steps you need to follow when souring wood for woodworking.
1. Choose Between Hardwood and Softwood
One of the first decisions I had to make when I started woodworking was whether to use hardwood or softwood and let me tell you, I didn’t get it right the first time.
I picked up some pine (a softwood) for a dining table project, thinking it would be easier to work with. While it was easy to cut and shape, I quickly realized it dented and scratched way too easily, especially with kids around.
That table didn’t last more than a year before I had to replace it.
Hardwoods like oak, maple, and walnut are denser and more durable, making them ideal for furniture, flooring, and projects that need to stand the test of time.
On the other hand, softwoods like pine, cedar, and spruce are lighter, easier to cut, and generally more affordable, which is great for beginners or for projects like shelving or decorative pieces.
Now, I always consider how much wear and tear the piece will face before choosing—if it’s something like a coffee table or a chair that gets daily use, I go for hardwood.
But if it’s a quick DIY shelf or a decorative frame, softwood does the trick and saves a few bucks.
Another thing to watch for is how the wood reacts to stains and finishes.
I once spent 3 hours staining a pine bookshelf, only to have it blotch up unevenly because I didn’t realize softwoods can soak up stain unpredictably.
Since then, I’ve learned to test stains on scrap pieces first, especially when working with softwoods.
Choosing the right type of wood isn’t just about strength—it’s about matching the material to the job for the best results.
2. Select Dimensionally Stable Quartersawn Wood
When I first heard about quartersawn wood, I thought it was just another fancy woodworking term that didn’t matter much.
But after a cabinet door I made from regular flat-sawn wood warped within 3 months, I learned the hard way why quartersawn wood matters.
Quartersawn boards are cut in a way that makes them more dimensionally stable, meaning they’re less likely to warp, cup, or twist over time, even with changes in humidity.
That makes a big difference, especially for furniture that needs to stay square and solid, like tabletops or cabinet doors.
What I love about quartersawn wood is not just its stability but also the unique grain patterns it shows off.
I used quartersawn white oak for a coffee table once, and the straight grain with those beautiful flecks gave it a clean, elegant look that flat-sawn wood just couldn’t match.
It was a bit pricier, but honestly, the peace of mind knowing the wood wouldn’t warp or shrink was worth every penny. Plus, it saved me from having to redo the project a few months down the line.
If you’re working on projects that need precision and long-term durability—think doors, flooring, or fine furniture.
I highly recommend going with quartersawn wood. It might cost a little more upfront, but it’ll save you time, effort, and frustration in the long run.
I always check with my local lumberyard for quartersawn boards, and if you’re lucky, you might even find some hidden gems in reclaimed wood piles.
3. Learn Different Wood Milling Cuts
When I first started woodworking, I didn’t pay much attention to how the wood was milled—I just grabbed boards that looked good and got to work.
Big mistake. I remember building a bookshelf using flat-sawn boards, and after a few months, the shelves started bowing and twisting.
That’s when I realized that understanding different milling cuts isn’t just for pros—it’s essential if you want your projects to last.
There are three common milling cuts you’ll come across: flat-sawn, quartersawn, and riftsawn.
Flat-sawn wood, the most common and affordable, has a beautiful wide grain pattern, but it’s the most prone to warping. Quartersawn wood, which I’ve come to love for its stability, has straight grain lines and resists movement much better.
Riftsawn wood, on the other hand, gives you a very uniform, linear grain and is perfect for sleek, modern designs, though it’s usually the most expensive of the three.
I once splurged on riftsawn oak for a set of dining chairs, and the clean lines made the whole set look sharp and professional.
Knowing these milling cuts helps me choose the right wood for the right project.
If I’m making something decorative, I might go with flat-sawn for its beautiful grain.
For furniture that needs to stay sturdy, I stick with quartersawn or riftsawn. It took me a couple of projects (and some warped boards) to learn this, but now I always ask about the milling cut when buying wood—it’s made a huge difference in the quality and longevity of my work.
4. Avoid Lumber Defects
I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been excited to start a project, only to realize halfway through that I picked boards with hidden defects.
One time, I built a beautiful coffee table out of what I thought was flawless wood, but after a few weeks, I noticed cracks forming along the grain.
Turns out, there were internal checks (tiny splits inside the wood) I hadn’t spotted at the lumber yard.
Since then, I’ve learned how important it is to inspect every board carefully before buying.
Common defects to watch out for include knots, warping, splits, and cupping. Knots can look cool, but they weaken the wood and can cause cracks later.
I once tried to work around a large knot in a shelf, and sure enough, that spot became the weak link, causing the shelf to sag after just a few months.
Warping and cupping, where boards bend or curve, make it nearly impossible to get clean, straight lines.
I now always lay the board flat at the store to see if it rocks—if it does, I move on to the next one.
Another trick I’ve picked up is checking for moisture content. I bought a moisture meter (it cost me around $20) after a project disaster with wood that wasn’t fully dried.
Ever since, I make sure my lumber is between 6-8% moisture before I bring it home. Taking a few extra minutes to inspect wood for defects has saved me hours of frustration and rework.
Trust me, your projects will turn out stronger and last longer when you start with solid, defect-free wood.
5. Know Where to Buy Lumber
When I first got into woodworking, I thought the big-box hardware stores were the only places to buy lumber. I’d grab whatever was on the racks, not realizing that I was limiting myself to overpriced, lower-quality wood.
It wasn’t until I stumbled into a local lumberyard that I realized what I’d been missing.
The variety, quality, and even the advice from the folks there were on a whole different level.
Plus, I could handpick boards with the best grain and fewest defects, which made a noticeable difference in my projects.
Local lumberyards and sawmills are goldmines for woodworkers. Not only do they offer better-quality wood, but they often have species you won’t find at big-box stores, like walnut, cherry, or exotic hardwoods.
I also discovered reclaimed wood suppliers—I once picked up a batch of old barn wood for a dining table, and the character in that wood was something you just can’t buy new.
For specialty woods, online retailers can be a good option too, but I always check reviews and shipping policies carefully since you can’t inspect the wood in person.
Over time, I’ve built relationships with local suppliers, which has paid off more than once.
I’ve gotten discounts, early access to unique wood, and even advice on the best wood for specific projects.
It’s worth visiting different places to see what they offer and asking questions—it helped me find better deals and higher-quality wood.
Trust me, knowing where to buy your lumber can be the difference between an average project and one you’re proud to show off.
6. Acclimate Your Lumber to Your Workshop
I learned the importance of acclimating lumber the hard way. Early on, I built a beautiful set of bookshelves right after bringing the wood home from the store.
They looked perfect at first, but after about 2 weeks in my workshop, the boards started to warp and pull away from the joints.
That’s when I realized wood isn’t as stable as I thought—it expands and contracts based on humidity and temperature, and if you don’t let it adjust to your workshop environment, your project can fall apart before you know it.
Now, whenever I buy lumber, I let it sit in my workshop for at least 5 to 7 days before starting any cuts.
I stack the boards with spacers between them, allowing air to circulate around every side. This helps the wood adjust evenly and reduces the risk of warping or twisting once the project is finished.
For larger projects, like tables or cabinets, I might even let the wood acclimate for 2 weeks, just to be safe. It’s a simple step, but it’s saved me countless hours of frustration down the line.
Another thing I’ve started doing is using a moisture meter to check the wood before I start building.
I aim for a moisture content that matches my workshop conditions, usually between 6-8%. If it’s higher, I give it more time to acclimate.
Taking this extra step has made a huge difference in the stability and longevity of my projects. Trust me, waiting a few extra days is a small price to pay for a piece that’ll last for years.
Sourcing the right wood might seem like a small detail, but it can make or break your project.
I’ve learned the hard way that taking a few extra steps—like checking for defects or letting the wood acclimate—can save hours of frustration later. Have you ever had a project go sideways because of the wood you chose?
Now that you know what to look for, you’re set to build projects that are sturdy, beautiful, and built to last.
What’s the first project you’re excited to tackle with your newly sourced lumber? Let me know—I’d love to hear how it turns out!
FAQs
Where is the best place to buy wood for woodworking?
Local lumberyards and sawmills offer better quality and variety than big-box stores, and reclaimed wood suppliers are great for unique finds.
What is the difference between hardwood and softwood?
Hardwoods like oak and walnut are denser and more durable, while softwoods like pine and cedar are lighter, easier to work with, and generally cheaper.
How do I prevent wood from warping after buying it?
Let your wood acclimate in your workshop for 5 to 7 days to adjust to the humidity and temperature before starting your project.
What is quartersawn wood, and why should I use it?
Quartersawn wood is cut to be more stable and less prone to warping, making it ideal for furniture, flooring, and precision projects.
How do I know if the wood is dry enough for woodworking?
Use a moisture meter to check if the wood’s moisture content is between 6-8% before starting your project.
